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May the wave rise up to meet you

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“The paddle-out from the island rocks (Los Morros) has achieved legendary status for sketchiness - dashing across the slippery shelf from a hiding place in the rocks when there is a lull has caught many out. Experts only when it gets above double-overhead.” This best described the next break I would camp out for a week and a half. Further confirmed by talking to locals and witnessing it firsthand.
Take-off just inside the Morro I found it hard to believe at first, but the entry was the sketchiest part of surfing here. Sometimes I had to wait 15 minutes for a lull between sets to paddle out, but I was fortunate to not have any close calls. Once in the water, you weren’t totally out of the woods. When the SW swell hits the morro, the waves refract around the point to break inside the pocket, right in front of a rock outpost by the Mirador. If you haven’t seen surf refact it’s pretty neat to watch, especially for a surf nerd like me. In this case, watching the waves deposit surfers 5 f…

Patagonia

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Our first glimpse of what Patagonia has to offer I considered New Zealand to be the most majestic and awe inspiring of places I’ve visited. That award now belongs to Patagonia. When we arrived in Panama our booked travel consisted of a 1 way ticket to Panama. We had yet to plot our next adventure, which was shaping up to be the Galapagos Islands. As we started to spitball ideas, budget, logistics…one thing jumped out. Patagonia trekking had a window that was fast closing. March was shoulder season for an area well known for its temperamental weather. I dug into research and got excited about a popular route in Torres del Paine. It seemed a compromise between my adventurous outdoor streak and Carrie’s aversion to all things cold and wet. TDP has a series of refugios to stay and eat without the hassle of hauling a tent, sleeping bag, and 6 meals. Booking said refugios was a monster challenge. Availability changes hourly, everything was booked 3 weeks out, the prices aren’t cheap,…

Highlight Reel from Bocas

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Our Bocas Family Here goes my debut. As I depart from Panama, I thought it would be fitting to write about the most memorable times or highlights of Panama (sans experiences Trent already wrote about). So here it goes:Arriving at our host’s house, and getting yelled at by her visiting daughter. Apparently she was pissed off at president Trump and I was the most reasonable target. Of course, I had no idea what she was saying as it was all in Spanish. That was a warm welcome!Getting locked inside the studio apartment. Yep, hard to imagine getting locked inside, even when you have the keys. The key on the bolt would not budge. Trent and I started to take inventory - water, check; food, check. There was no getting out through the window - both windows had iron bars that would prevent a break-out, yet they were put there to prevent a break-in. So what to do…I started yelling our hosts name. Luckily, she was able to get the door unlocked from the outside. Although I must admit, I had…

Win a free t-shirt

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No surf for almost a week and a half. I feel sad inside, like this Tears of no surf However, I am afforded the opportunity to explore the archipelago, study Spanish, and plan our next move after Panama. When we booked our first leg of this journey we had a lot going on with selling the house and tearing down a life. We opted not to buy a round the world ticket, as we prefer the short term freedom over the long term certainty. At first struggling to find an anchor to start our trip, we landed on a simple narrative: learn Spanish, travel South America, and never venture long from surf. A narrative is far from a plan and filling in the pieces has been time consuming, frustrating, but ultimately a crucial piece of our adventures. I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about the best way to chart travel and I won’t bore our 2 readers with my specific machinations on this topic. Highlighting this week was the effort to book the classic ‘W Circuit’ in Torres del Paine. A process so unnecessari…

Paunch Lights Up, My Phone Shuts Off

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Another swell landed in Bocas on Friday night. Saturday, dudes were pulling into barrels and coming out with a broken board. Within the first hour 2 guys had turned from surfer to spectator, their boards eaten by Paunch. I had some of my most most hair raising drops and rides since starting surfing 15 years ago. Those rides were equally matched by wipeouts that would have made the “best of” reel. Intense is the best word to describe the day. I simultaneaously wanted to go back to bed and curl up in the fetal position as I craved to ride another locamotive. The speed was intense. Paunch is a left, which for this regular foot, meant more concentration to surf these steam rollers. No cutbacks, just raw speed. My pulse is racing just writing about it 4 days later. Through trial by fire I’ve had to relearn and advance my skills as a surfer. I almost feel as if I belong at that break. Since my last post I’ve gone out everyday, except Sunday, and I’m exhausted physically and mentally.

A …

Settling in to Bocas

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Learning Spanish by only hearing Spanish is like trying to become smart by holding a book. Everyone keeps telling me that your brain just magically absorbs nonsense thats consitently uttered directly to your face. Like someday suddenly I’ll write beautiful Spanish prose, play the flamenco guitar, and strike a strong resemblance to Javier Bardem. Imagine your in a room full of people and the speaker asks “whats the square root of 1,5678,490?” and everybody looks at you wondering why the fuck you don’t know the answer. It’s like that every morning for 4 hours. Needless to say, I haven’t had an epiphany yet, but I’ll let you know when lightning strikes.To further our indoctrination into the Panamanian Caribbean life, we are staying with a sweet grandma. She cooks us 2 meals a day and keeps us inline. While eating our tasty pescado last night, she would yell at us to ‘habla espanol’. A phrase has been utered to me in class more than once. As with all things travel, you have to disavow you…

Start of our Extended Travels - Bastimentos, Panama

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Bastimentos Bay Our upcoming focus for the next month is learning Spanish through an immersion program, including 4 hours of class a day, in the Panama Caribbean. We came a few days ahead of time to unwind from upheaval and stress of selling our house in Boulder and packing our life in a to go container. For the first 5 days we are staying in Isla Bastimentos within Bocas Del Toro. Bocas is an archipelago of islands that have a low key island life with a mix of Panamanian and Jamaican influence. A number of immigrants from Jamaica came here to build the Canal railroad and work on banana plantations. Most people on the island speak a hybrid of English and Spanish, called Jamaican Creole. We booked our short stay here with Airbnb. Our host, Pamela, was helpful at pointing us towards places to go, as this island isn’t very developed. No Yelp reviews here, but there are a few good eats on the island. Chavela is known for their burgers and Mami’s had some tasty local fare. 15 minute…