Showing posts from February 12, 2017

Paunch Lights Up, My Phone Shuts Off

Another swell landed in Bocas on Friday night. Saturday, dudes were pulling into barrels and coming out with a broken board. Within the first hour 2 guys had turned from surfer to spectator, their boards eaten by Paunch. I had some of my most most hair raising drops and rides since starting surfing 15 years ago. Those rides were equally matched by wipeouts that would have made the “best of” reel. Intense is the best word to describe the day. I simultaneaously wanted to go back to bed and curl up in the fetal position as I craved to ride another locamotive. The speed was intense. Paunch is a left, which for this regular foot, meant more concentration to surf these steam rollers. No cutbacks, just raw speed. My pulse is racing just writing about it 4 days later. Through trial by fire I’ve had to relearn and advance my skills as a surfer. I almost feel as if I belong at that break. Since my last post I’ve gone out everyday, except Sunday, and I’m exhausted physically and mentally.

A …