Showing posts from April 2, 2017

May the wave rise up to meet you

“The paddle-out from the island rocks (Los Morros) has achieved legendary status for sketchiness - dashing across the slippery shelf from a hiding place in the rocks when there is a lull has caught many out. Experts only when it gets above double-overhead.” This best described the next break I would camp out for a week and a half. Further confirmed by talking to locals and witnessing it firsthand.
Take-off just inside the Morro I found it hard to believe at first, but the entry was the sketchiest part of surfing here. Sometimes I had to wait 15 minutes for a lull between sets to paddle out, but I was fortunate to not have any close calls. Once in the water, you weren’t totally out of the woods. When the SW swell hits the morro, the waves refract around the point to break inside the pocket, right in front of a rock outpost by the Mirador. If you haven’t seen surf refact it’s pretty neat to watch, especially for a surf nerd like me. In this case, watching the waves deposit surfers 5 f…